Verb: pootle
poo-t(u)l To move in a leisurely unhurried way,
with no real purpose


Wednesday, 17 February 2021

                                                           ♥ Primrose Spring Wrap 



I designed this Primrose Spring Wrap a few years ago for www.lovecraftscrochet 
but with its timeless design it can be used year after year and is perfect for keeping those early Spring chills at bay.

It's super easy to make and with the little primroses added afterwards
 you can create something truly unique.

The finished measurements are as follows:
Shoulder to shoulder, along the top edge = approx 46cm
From side to side along the bottom edge = approx 66cm

As you are working with a large hook and a lightweight yarn the fabric has lots of stretch in it.



Made in the softest of yarn it drapes beautifully 
and the little Primroses added to the finished wrap 
will bring a beautiful touch of Spring to your wardrobe. 



 For the wrap I used 2 x 100g balls of Red Heart Precious in the colour Peridot 00005 
 For the Primroses and leaves I used 1 x ball each of Adriafil Uno A Ritorto 5 in the colours:
 Light Army Green 79, Ecru 12 and Baby Light Yellow 05.

  
I worked the wrap with a size 6mm hook, using a size 7mm hook to make the initial starting chain.
For the Primroses and leaves I worked with 2.5mm hook.


To make the wrap:
Begin by making a chain of 160. It is important to keep the chain as loose as possible  which can either be done by working very loosely with a 6mm hook or using a 7mm hook just for the chain. The length of your crochet piece will be approx 135cm.
You are now going to work rows of HTR, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. Continue until your work is the depth that you want it to be when it is wrapped around your shoulders.         
Once you have completed the main body of the wrap, lay it out on a flat surface and fold it in half with the right sides together, so that the two short edges meet. You are now going to create the twist which you do by flipping the top half of the wrap over and laying the short seams together again.

 
   
Pin the two seams together, rejoin your yarn and join the two edges with a row of DC. Finish off and sew in your ends.
   
You will notice now that by joining the seams in this way you have created a permanent twist in the wrap.

To create a neat edge on the wrap I worked  two borders, one of DC and one with a scallop pattern. As you have created a twist in the fabric , when working the border you will need to change direction at some point so that the right side of the border is always facing outwards.
I found the easiest way to do this was to use a pin to mark your starting point which will be on the underneath layer,  in the centre of the twist ( see picture 1, just to the right of the crochet hook.) Then mark your end point which will be at the front left of your wrap as you are looking down at it ( see picture 2, where the crochet hook is ).
      
Now, with RS facing rejoin your yarn at the starting point and work DC all the way around to your end pin, finish off. Go back to your starting pin, and with right side facing rejoin your yarn and work DC to the end pin.

 To work your final scallop edge, using your marker pins in the same way as you did for the DC round, work a border of * Sl St, skip 1 stitch, work 5 TR all in to the next stitch, skip a stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around.



Finish off and sew in the ends.

To make the primroses:

For my Primroses I used a mixture of the three colours.


  
Round 1: Begin by making a Magic Ring and work 5Dc in to the ring. Sl St to join and chain 1.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from Round 1, 10 sts
Sl St to join and finish off. Join in your petal colour with a Sl ST.
  
Now, working in to the same stitch as your * Sl St, work a HTR, TR and DTR. Into the next stitch work a DTR, TR, HTR and Sl St*. This completes your first petal. Now continue working around the centre of the flower, repeating from * to *until you have 5 petals. Join with a Sl St, finish off and sew in the ends.
    
For my wrap I made a total of 8 Primroses and 8 leaves.



To make the leaf:

Work a chain of 11 stitches. Beginning in the second chain from the hook work along the chain in the following stitch pattern: Sl St, DC, HTR, TR, DTR, DTR, TR, HTR, DC, Sl St. Work 1 chain across the bottom of the leaf.
    
You are now going to work the other side of the leaf by working along the other side of the chain in the following stitch pattern: Sl St, DC, HTR, TR, DTR, DTR, TR, HTR, DC, Sl St. Finish off by joining with a Sl St, finish off and sew in the ends.
  

It is entirely up to you how you choose to arrange your primroses, 
I found the best way to do this was to lay the wrap out an a flat surface, 
arrange the flowers and leaves in place, 
pin them and then I would recommend that once you have placed and pinned your flowers you try the wrap on just to check the flowers are exactly where you want them. Stitch the flowers and leaves on with a needle and thread.

 


Sunday, 13 December 2020

 


♥ Christmas Pudding Tea Cosy. 



I’m sure we’ll all be having a little tipple or two
 to celebrate the festive Season over the next couple of weeks but ,
 if you’re anything like me, 
the teapot will never be too far from view 
and the kettle will be on boil constantly to provide those much needed ‘cuppa’s’.

Of course, it goes without saying,
 that the teapot needs to be dressed for the occasion
 – and so what could be better than a Christmas Pudding Tea Cosy !


For my tea cosy I used BERGERE DE FRANCE MAGIC, 2 x balls of CRIQUET, 1 x ball of CASCADE SUNSEEKER in WHITE 35, a small amount of PAINTBOX COTTON in RACING GREEN 428 and in RED WINE 416. (If you prefer full on glittery leaves and berries you could also use the Cascade Sunseeker in red and green.) To add the glitter to the leaves and berries I used small amounts of TWILLEYS GOLDFINGERING in FOREST GREEN 051 and RED 038.
    
I worked with a 5.5mm hook for the main body of the tea cosy and a 3mm hook for the white topping and the leaves and berries.
As a finishing touch I added a tiny gold coin, made with the Twilleys Goldfingering in GOLD 002,  and a 2mm hook, that is tucked away inside the pudding in true Christmas fashion !
My tea cosy is designed to fit a 1500 ml , 10 cup teapot.

To make the sides of the cosy. Make 2:
Row 1: Using the CRIQUET and a 5.5mm hook make a chain of 31. ( If you are making a cosy for a different sized pot your chain needs to be the height of your teapot from the bottom to the top of the lid.)
Row 2: Starting in the second chain from the hook work a row of TR. 30 sts. Chain 2 and turn.
Row 3: Working in to the back loops only work a row of 30 TR, chain 2 and turn.
Rows 4 to 20: Continue working as for Row 3. Finish off. Your piece of crochet should now be the width of the teapot. ( If you are making a cosy for a different sized pot the width of your piece of crochet can be adjusted at this point by working more or less rows.)
Make a second piece as above.
        
Joining the sides of the cosy together:  
Lay one piece on top of the other on a flat surface and using pins mark on each side the space that you need to leave open for the handle and the spout.
For my cosy I left a gap of 10cm for the handle, with a seam of 4cm below the handle and 5cm above the handle.
For the spout I left a gap of 7cm, with a seam of 5cm below the spout and 7cm above the spout.
I used a needle and yarn to sew the seams. Finish off and sew in the ends

Fitting the cosy to the teapot:
Turn the cosy so that the seams are on the inside and slide it on to your teapot. Using double thickness yarn run a gathering thread all around the top of the cosy and then carefully pull it up so that it closes around the top of the lid. Stitch firmly in place.
               
       
To make the white topping for the pudding:
Worked in a continuous round.

Round 1: Using the Cascade Sunseeker in White and a 3mm hook make a Magic Ring and work 8 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from Round 1, 16sts.
Round 3: *Work 1 DC in to the first stitch and then two DC in to the next stitch*.  Repeat from * to *all the way around. 24 sts.
Round 4: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 2 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 32 sts.
Round 5: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 3 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 40 sts.
Round 6: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 4 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 48 sts.
Round 7: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 5 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 56 sts.
Round 8: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 6 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 64 sts.
Round 9: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 7 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 72 sts.
Round 10: DC 72
Round 11: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 8 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 80 sts.
Round 12: DC 80
Round 13: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 9 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 88 sts.
Rounds 14 and 15: DC 88
Round 16: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 10 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 96 sts.
Round 17 and 18: DC 96
Round 19: *Work 1 DC in to the each of the next 11 stitches and then two DC in to  the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around. 104 sts.
Round 20: DC 104.
Round 21: You are now going to add the wavy edging to create the dripped effect of the topping. I chose to work a random shape for mine so used a combination of the stitch patterns below.
Begin with a Sl St and then work a combination of the following:
Pattern  1: Work 2 stitches in to each stitch as follows: HTR + TR, TR + DTR , TTR + TTR, DTR + TR, TR + HTR, Sl St.
Pattern 2: Work 2 stitches in to each stitch as follows: DC + DC,  DC + HTR, HTR + HTR, HTR + TR, TR + TR , TR + HTR, HTR + HTR, HTR + DC , DC + DC, Sl St.
Pattern 3: DC + HTR, TR + DTR, HTR + DC,Sl St.


To make the Holly Leaves:


The leaves are made with 1 x strand of the Paintbox Cotton and 1 x strand of the Twilleys Goldfingering in Green. I used a 3mm hook.

To make the large leaf: Make 4
Using 1 strand of Cascade and 1 x strand of Twilleys Goldfingering,  chain 12.
Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook work the following stitches along the chain: 2 x DC, 3 x HTR, 2 x TR, 2 x HTR and 2 x DC. You should now be at the top of the chain. Work a Sl ST across the top of the chain and then work the following stitch pattern back down the other side of the chain: 2 x DC, 3 x HTR, 2 x TR, 2 x HTR, 1 x DC.
Work a SL St in to the bottom of the chain and then work a chain of 6 for the stalk. Work 5 x Sl St back along the chain and Sl St back in to the base of the leaf.   
In the next round you will be making the points of the holly leaf.
Point 1: Sl St in to the first stitch, CH2, Sl St back in to the first stitch of the chain and then Sl St back in to the leaf.     
Continuing working along the side of the leaf as follows:
Point 2: DC, CH 2, Sl St back in to 1st Chain, Sl ST 
Point 3: DC, CH3, Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST
Point 4: DC, CH2, Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST
Point 5: Sl ST, CH 2  Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST.
Point 6: Sl ST in to the top stitch, CH 3, Sl ST back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST back in to the top of the leaf.
Now work back down the other side side of the leaf as follows:
Point 7:  Sl ST, CH 2  Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST.
Point 8: DC, CH2, Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST
Point 9: DC, CH3, Sl St back in to the 1st chain, Sl ST
Point 10: DC, CH 2, Sl St back in to 1st Chain, Sl ST 
Point 11: Sl ST, CH 2, Sl St back in to 1st Chain, Sl ST  .
Finish off and sew in the ends.

 
To make the Holly Berries: Make 7

  The  berries are made with 1 x strand of the Paintbox Cotton and 1 x strand of Twilleys Goldfingering in red.
Using 1 x strand of PAINTBOX COTTON and 1 x strand of Twilleys in RED make a Magic Ring.
Work 5 DC in to the ring.
Work a round of DC, 5 sts.
Finish off and use the yarn tail to sew around the bottom of the berry, gather up in to a ball shape, finish off and leave a long tail so that you can attach the berries to the tea cosy.

To make the Gold Coin: Make 2 and stitch together.

Round 1: Using the Twilleys Fingering in Gold and a 2mm hook make a Magic Ring and work 4 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch.
Round 3: *Work 1 DC in to the first stitch and then two DC in to the next stitch*.  Repeat from * to *all the way around. 12 sts.
Round 4: *Work 1 DC in to each of the first 2 stitches and then two DC in to the next stitch*.  Repeat from * to *all the way around. 16 sts.
Round 5: *Work 1 DC in to each of the first 3 stitches and then two DC in to the next stitch*.  Repeat from * to *all the way around. 20 sts. Sl St to join and finish off.
Maker a second circle and stitch the two circles together.

To complete your tea cosy:

 

Using a needle and thread stitch the topping to the pudding in the centre top.
 Position the leaves and stitch in to place with a few stitches. I just put in a few anchoring stitches rather than sewing them on all the way around as I wanted the leaves to stick up a little.
Then sew on the berries.
Finish off by sewing the gold coin in place so that it is just poking out either by the spout or the handle.

Time to put the kettle on I think !     


Wednesday, 9 December 2020

                                                                Christmas Angel  




For my Angel I used a variety of different textured yarns 
and when completed she measures approximately 13cm high.

I used the following yarn : 1 x Paintbox Cotton in 453 for the head, hands and base,  
1 x Sirdar Ophelia in 0107 for the dress, arms and wings 
1 x Bergere de France, Abakan in Ecru for the hair.
 I also used a small amount of Gold Twilleys Fingering to edge the wings.

I worked with a 2.5 mm hook for the main part of the angel and a 4.5mm 
and 2.5 mm hook for the wings.

You will also need 2 x small black safety eyes and some toy stuffing.

The Angel is worked from the top of the head down, in continuous rounds. 
You may find it helps to work with a stitch marker.

To make the body:
Round 1: Begin by making a Magic Circle and work 6 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from the first round, 12 sts.
Round 3: *Work 1 DC in to the first stitch and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 18sts.
Round 4: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 2 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 24 sts.
Round 5: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 3 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 30 sts.  
Rounds 6 to 13: Work a round of DC, 30 sts.
Round 14: *DC in to each of the next 3 stitches then decrease 2 by DC the next 2 stitches together.* Repeat from * to * all the way around, 24 sts.
Round 15: Decrease by DC  2 stitches together all the way around, 12 sts.
Round 16: * DC in to the next stitch and then decrease by DC the next 2 stitches together.* Repeat from * to * all the way around, 8 sts.
Round 17: For this round you are now going to increase to start the shaping of the neck and body. Dc2 in to each stitch all the way around, 16 sts.
Round 18: Work a round of DC, 16 sts.
Round 19: *Work 1 DC in to the first stitch and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 24sts.
Rounds 20 and 21: Change to the white yarn and work a round of DC, 24 sts.
Round 22: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 2 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 32 sts.
Rounds 23 and 24: Work a Round of DC, 32 sts.
After completing Round 24 fix the safety eyes in place and stuff the head
Round 25: Work a Round of DC, 32 sts.
Round 26: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 3 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 40 sts.
Rounds 27 to 29: Work a Round of DC, 40 sts.
Round 30: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 4 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 48 sts.
Rounds 31 to 33: Work a Round of DC, 48 sts.
Round 34: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 5 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 56 sts.
Rounds 35 to 37: Work a Round of DC, 56 sts.
Round 38: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 6 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 64 sts.
Round 39: Work a Round of DC, 64 sts. Finish off and sew in the ends.

The next stage is to make the additional parts for the angel. 
She will need two arms, a ruffle to go around the top neck 
edge of the dress and some wings.



To make the arms:
Round 1: Using the pink yarn make a Magic Ring and work 6 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: *Work 1 DC in to the first stitch and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 9 sts.
Rounds 3 and 4: Work a round of DC, 9 sts. At the end of Round 4 change to the white yarn.
Now continue working rounds of 9 DC until the arm measaures approximately 5.5 cm . Finish off leaving a long tail. Make a second arm.

To make the Neck Ruffle:
Chain 25.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook work 2 HTR in to each stitch all the way along the chain. At the end of the row Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: Work 1 HTR in to each stitch, all the way along the row. Finish off, leaving a long tail.
Using the long yarn tails on both of the arms and the neck ruffle sew the additional pieces on to the angel.
   
To make the wings:
The wings are made from a circle of crochet that’s folded in half and joined together around the edge.
Round 1: Make a Magic Ring and work 8 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from the first round, 16 sts.
Round 3: *Work 1 DC in to the next  stitch and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 24 sts.
Round 4: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 2 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 32 sts.
Round 5: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 3 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 40 sts.
Round 6: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 4 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 48 sts.
Round 7: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 5 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 56 sts.
Round 8: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 6 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 64 sts. Finish off and sew in the ends.
Round 9: Work a round of DC, 64 sts.
Round 10: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 7 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 72 sts. Finish off and sew in the ends.
Round 11: Work a round of DC, 72 sts.
Round 12: Work 2 DC in to each stitch all the way around. Finish off and sew in the ends.
   
To finish the wings fold the circle in half and using a 2.5mm hook and the Gold Twilleys Fingering join the two halves together by working 2 DC in to each stitch all the way around. Work this same edging along the straight edge too. Finish off and sew in the ends.


  
Attach the wings to the angels back by sewing them to the main body using a needle and some of the yarn.


To make the angels hair:
Using the Bergere de France yarn cut some lengths of yarn that are long enough to go from one side of the head across to the other. Lay them out on a flat surface to position them correctly, and then using a needle and some yarn sew them in to place on to the angels head. I stitched mine so it had a side parting and then attached a small bow and sewed some further stitches on the other side of the head too.
   


To finish your angel:
You are now going to stuff the angels body, and sew on the base. The base is made in the Pink yarn as follows:
Round 1: Make a Magic Ring and work 8 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from the first round, 16 sts.
Round 3: *Work 1 DC in to the next  stitch and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 24 sts.
Round 4: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 2 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 32 sts.
Round 5: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 3 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 40 sts.
Round 6: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 4 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 48 sts.
Round 7: Work a round of DC, 48 sts.
Round 8: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 5 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 56 sts.
Round 9: Work a round of DC, 56 sts.
Round 10: *Work 1 DC in to each of the next 6 stitches and then 2 DC in to the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way round, 64 sts. Finish off and sew in the ends.
Once your base is complete, use some soft toy stuffing to stuff the angels body.  Now take the base and with the right side facing outwards, place the base over the bottom of the body, rejoin your white yarn and join the base and the bottom edge of the dress together by working a round of DC.
   
To complete my angel I then worked a scalloped border on to the bottom of the dress by working the following pattern all the way around the bottom edge:

Working in to the front loop only, work  a *Sl St in to the first stitch, a DC into the next stitch , and then work a HTR, TR, HTR and DC all in to the following stitch.* Repeat from * to * all the way around, finish off and sew in the ends.