Verb: pootle
poo-t(u)l To move in a leisurely unhurried way,
with no real purpose


Friday, 24 July 2020


♥ Simple, lightweight pompom blanket 


Finally, finally I have got around to writing down the pattern for my pompom blanket!

I have so enjoyed making this blanket, from start to finish it has been such an easy, 
uncomplicated make that hasn't demanded any extra concentration
 and has made for the perfect calming crochet project .


I first knew I wanted to make it after I finished my Chelsea Flower Show cushion. 
I wanted a lightweight blanket, that would be plain in design 
and that would co-ordinate with the main colourway of the cushion. 

The finished blanket measures W 120cm  x H 140cm .

The yarn that I chose to use is DROPS Baby Merino, 
it's beautifully light and soft and is 100% superwash merino wool.
The colour is very similar to the DROPS yarn that I used for the cushion, 
and the two shades work beautifully together. 

To tie the two makes together I edged the blanket and made
  the pompoms in the same DROPS Cotton Merino that I used for the cushion.

The pattern is written in UK terms.

Tension square:
22 sts x 25 rows, worked in dc with a 3mm hook = 10cm x 10cm.


 

To make the blanket:


Materials:


26 x balls of DROPS BABY MERINO in colour 43.
3 x balls of DROPS COTTON MRINO in colour 29.
3mm crochet hook
35mm pompom maker

For the blanket:


Using the DROPS baby merino and the 3mm crochet hook work a chain of 261. 
Keep your chain taut, but not too tight, as this will make the first row a little easier.
If you find that even whilst keeping your chain relatively loose it is still difficult to 
work the first row, try using a 3.5mm hook just for the initial chain.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook work 1 htr in to each chain
 all the way along to the end. 260 sts. At the end of the row, chain 1 and turn.

Row 2: Starting in the first stitch of the row, work 1 htr in each stitch all the 
way to the end of the row. 
When I work htr's I work each stitch into the space below the stitch rather than directly 
under the stitch as I find this gives a lovely neat appearance to the finished blanket. 
If you prefer to work htr's in the usual way it will work equally work.


And that really is the most complicated part over as now all you need 
to do is keep repeating Row 2, 
remembering to chain 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Keep crocheting away until your blanket measures approx. 139cm, 
finishing on a right side row.
At the end of the final row, finish off and sew in the ends.

 

To edge the blanket:

Round 1: Using DROPS Cotton Merino and the 3mm hook, join in the yarn at the top 
right hand corner, at the start of the row ( right side facing), and work a row of dc. 
Work 2 extra dc in to the last stitch and then continuing on around, 


 work 1 dc in to each end of row stitch all the way down the left hand side of the blanket. 
Work  3dc in to the last st and then work 1 dc in to each
 stitch along the bottom of the blanket. 
Work 3dc in to the last stitch and then work back up the right hand side of the blanket. 
Work 2 extra dc in to the last st and then sl st back to the beginning of the top row to join.

Round 2: Where you have just joined the end of the round, chain 1 and work 1 dc in to 
the same stitch. Now work another complete round of dc as for Round 1. 
Sl st to join at the end of the round, as for Round 1.

You could choose to finish your edging at this point, or, if you wanted to add a further 
round to give extra weight to the blanket, you could work 1 round of Rope stitch 
all the way around the edge of the blanket. 
Rope stitch is essentially dc, but worked in a clockwise direction
 rather than the usual anti-clockwise direction.

Once you have completed the border make sure all your ends are sewn in carefully.

For the pompoms:

For my pompoms I used a 35mm pompom maker and the DROPS Cotton Merino.
To keep all the pompoms the same size make sure you wrap the same amount
 of yarn evenly around the maker for each one. 
I worked 90 wraps of yarn for both the top half and bottom half of each pompom.
Make sure that the tie for the centre of the pompoms has tails of a good length 
as you will be using these to stitch the pompoms to the blanket.




                                 

The key to getting a neat pompom is to spend a little bit of time trimming 
each finished pompom with a small pair of scissors.
 You will find that this makes all the difference to the finished look, and that it is 
so worth spending a little bit of time doing this.



In total I made 24 pompoms.

Once you have made the pompoms, lay your blanket out on a flat surface
 and evenly space 12 pompoms along the top edge
 and then the same along the bottom edge.
Once you are happy with the positioning stitch them securely in to place.


And that completes your blanket !

All you need to do now is to find the perfect chair or sofa to lay it on.






 

Monday, 15 June 2020



With holidays a little unlikely this year, 
I think its time to decorate my kitchen shelf with all things seasidey!

Seaside Cottages, Cornishware china and a garland of Summer Daisies 
are definitely what is called for.....
so I've dug them all out of storage and I thought you might like the details
 of the pattern for the garland.


For the garland I used a DK weight yarn, in white and cornflower blue 
and a length of some thin blue ribbon. 
I used a 3mm hook. 
You'll also need a small amount of stuffing for the crochet beads.


The pattern for both the daisies and the crochet beads will 
work in any weight yarn, just remember to use the correct hook size to match.

To make the Daisies:


Begin by making a Magic Ring, and work 8 DC into the ring. 
Pull the ring closed and SL ST to join.


Now work 2 DC in to each stitch. 16sts. 
SL ST to join and finish off. Sew in the ends.


Join in your second colour and chain 7.


Beginning in the 2nd chain from the hook work 6 DC, 
bringing you back to the beginning of the chain.
SL ST in to the next stitch.


Now chain 7 again and work the petal as before. 
Continue making petals around the circle.


I found 14 petals to be about the right amount,
 leaving you a stitch to SL ST back into to. Finish off. Sew in your ends.

I decided to block and stiffen my daisies, 
which I did by spraying them with Fablon Ironing Starch Spray 
and then pinning them out onto a board to dry for a couple of days.



To make the Crochet Beads:

Round 1:Make a Magic Ring and work 6 DC into the ring. 
Pull the ring closed and SL ST to join. 

Round 2:  Work 2 DC in to each stitch 12 sts. 

Round 3: Working in a continuous round, DC 36.

Round 4: Decrease 6 times, 6sts. Finish off leaving a long tail.

Stuff the bead and using a needle and the tail of yarn,
 run a gathering thread around the bottom of the bead and pull closed. 
Finish off and sew in the ends.


To join the garland together I alternated the flowers and the beads 
and I used a large needle to thread the ribbon along the back of each daisy
 and through the centre of each bead. 


Once finished it's just a matter of hanging it in place, 
and whilst it may not be quite up there with a holiday in the Caribbean, 
it's more than Summery enough for me !

My little Seaside Cottages are made by the lovely Loraine of 
She sells through Etsy or her facebook Page.

Tuesday, 31 March 2020

Mini Rainbow Bunting

Following on from my Rainbow and Rainbow Hearts pattern, 
I have one more colourful pattern for you, to help pass the time in 
these days where we all need to stay home.

This mini colourful bunting is quick, easy and very, very cheery!


As for the other two patterns I used Ricorumi Cotton, 
which is a DK yarn, and a 3mm hook.

You can use any yarn you may have to hand, of any weight,
 just use a hook size to match the yarn.

The pattern is written in UK terms.

For the bunting:

Row 1:  In VIOLET chain 2 and work 2 dc in to the second chain. CH 1 and turn.
Row 2: Work 2dc in to the first st and 2dc in to the last st. 4 sts. Ch 1 in INDIGO. Finish off VIOLET.

Row 3:  In INDIGO work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 6 sts.
Row 4: Dc. 6 sts. Ch 1 in BLUE. Finish off INDIGO.

Row 5:  In BLUE work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 8 sts.
Row 6: Dc. 8 sts. Ch 1 in GREEN. Finish off BLUE.

Row 7:  In GREEN work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 10 sts.
Row 8: Dc. 10 sts. Ch 1 in YELLOW. Finish off GREEN.

Row 9:  In YELLOW work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 12 sts.
Row 10: Dc. 12 sts. Ch 1 in ORANGE. Finish off YELLOW.

Row 11:  In ORANGE work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 14 sts.
Row 12: Dc. 14 sts. Ch 1 in RED. Finish off ORANGE.

Row 13:  In RED work 2dc in to the first st, dc to the last st, work 2dc in to the last st. 16 sts.
Row 14: Dc. 16 sts.  

Do not finish off. Work another dc in to the last st and then continue on around in dc, working down the left hand side of the flag. Work 3 dc in to the stitch at the point of the flag and then continue up the right hand side of the flag. Join back to the beginning with a sls t and finish off.


Using any colour yarn, chain 20. Dc along the top of one of the flags ( Right side facing ) chain 10, dc in the second flag, and so on until all the flags are joined together, working 10 dc between each flag. After the final flag chain 20. Turn and work a row of dc all the way back along the chain. 
Finish off.