Verb: pootle
poo-t(u)l To move in a leisurely unhurried way,
with no real purpose


Friday, 14 February 2020


Bunny Hats for Babies





With Spring and Easter just around the corner it seemed only right to come up
 with a pattern for some tiny Bunny Hats for babies !
With particularly young babies in mind this pattern is designed in a 
Newborn size and an Up to 3 month’s size.

 With both warmth and softness being a priority I made my hats 
in Millamia Naturally Soft Merino.
I used a 4.5 mm hook.
( As this yarn is a Sportsweight yarn I would advise a smaller 
hook size if working these hats in DK )

I used the colours Forget-me-Not 120, Petal 122 and Snow 124. 
I found each hat took just over one ball of yarn.



The pattern is written in the Newborn size with the Up to 3 months size in brackets.
As I have discovered whilst designing this pattern, there can be quite
 a variation in size when looking to make a hat for a baby, 
so I thought it might be helpful to include the following information:

A Newborns average head circumference is 13” – 14”, 33cm – 36cm.
A 0 – 3 months average head circumference is 14” – 17”, 36cm – 43cm.

I have designed my hats to fit as follows:
Newborn Size: Finished circumference = 12.5” – 13”, 32cm – 33cm,
With the height of the hat being 6”, 15cm

Up to 3 months size: Finished Circumference = 14.5” – 15”, 37cm – 38cm
With the height of the hat being 7”, 18cm


To begin your hat make a Magic Ring.

Round 1: Work 8 DC in to the ring. SL ST together and chain 1.

Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 16 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 3: Work 1 DC in to the first stitch, followed by 2 DC in to the next stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 24 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 4: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 24 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 5: 1 DC in to each of the first 2 stitches and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way round. 32 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 6: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 32 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 7: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 3 stitches and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 40 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 8: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 40 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 9: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 4 stitches, and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 48 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 10: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 5 stitches, and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch. 56 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 11: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 56 sts.  Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 12: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 6 stitches, and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 64 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 13: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 64 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

Round 14: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 7 stitches, and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 72 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.

( For Up to 3 mnths: Round 15: Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 72 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1.
Round 16: Work 1 DC in to each of the first 8 stitches, and then work 2 DC in to the following stitch, repeat this pattern all the way around. 80 sts. Join with a SL ST and chain 1. )

At the end of Round 14 for Newborn ( and Round 16 for Up to 3 months ) continue in one continuous round until your work measures 6”, 15cm, ( 7”, 18cm ) from the centre top to the bottom edge.

When your hat measures the correct height, finish off and sew in your ends.



To make the ears:


To give the ears a good, solid texture so that they stand up I used 2 strands of yarn and a size 4.5 mm hook. The ears are worked in a continuous round ( so no need to join with a SL ST and chain 1 at the end of each round.)
Begin by making a Magic Ring and for Round 1 work 8 DC in to the ring.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch. 16sts.
Now work a further 11 rounds ( 13 rounds ) of 16 stitches.
Round 13 ( Round 15 ): Decrease by working the first 2 DC together , so, pull up 1 loop in each of the next 3 stitches and work as one DC, DC 6, decrease 2 DC together, DC 6. 14 sts.
Round 14 ( Round 16 ): Work 1 DC in to each stitch all the way around. 14 sts.
              
At the end of your final round finish off and leave a long tail of yarn for sewing the ears to the hat.
      
Use 1 strand of the yarn to sew the ear together along the bottom edge. Then pinch the ear in half longways and secure in place along the bottom edge. Finish off and sew in your end, leaving the other strand of yarn in place as this will be used to stitch the ears to the hat.

When sewing the ears on to the hat I found it quite useful to mark the positioning of the ears with a couple of pins first. To ensure the ears stay firmly in place stitch each ear on very securely, working your stitches all the way around the bottom of each ear, and securing your ends on the inside of the hat.
 
To finish off your hat you may wish to add a ribbon tied in to a bow or, for the full Spring effect, some tiny 5 petal flowers, made from small pieces of left over yarn.


                     
To make a 5 petal flower: 

Make a Magic Ring.
Work 5 DC in to the ring. Finish off, sew in your ends and change colour.
Join in your 2nd colour and chain 3. Work 3 TR in to the first stitch, leaving the final loop of each TR on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. Chain 3 and SL ST back in to the same stitch. Chain 3 and repeat the petal pattern in to the next stitch. Work 5 petals in total and finish off by joining back in to the first stitch with a SL ST. Finish off and sew in your ends.



Whether your hat is to be packed up as part of a New Baby Hamper,
            or simply given instead of eggs this Easter, I’m sure you’ll agree that there are going to be some very cute Spring babies around in the next few weeks.

Monday, 10 February 2020


♥ Spring Sampler Shawl ♥


A couple of years ago I was busy designing, making and writing up the
 pattern for my Spring Sampler Shawl. The pattern was then featured
 on lovecrochet.com as a free Crochet-A-Long, meaning that across 4 weeks the
 pattern was published in 4 different parts so that people could work on the
 pattern at the same time, completing each section ready for the next part of the pattern.

 

I made two different shawls in two different yarn types and colour ways. 
I used a DK weight yarn and all the details are included in the pattern.


The idea behind the design was to have a piece of work that really showcased the detail 
and textures created by working different stitches. Each different band of stitches 
would then be separated by a strip of simple double crochet ( UK terms) for contrast.


As I wanted the stitch patterns to be the main focus of the shawl I worked the main
 stitch strips in the same colour throughout, and just used two different
 coordinating colours for the dividing strips to make the stitch 
bands really stand out.

 

I used 4 different stitches: Waffle stitch, Suzette stitch, Alternate Bobble stitch and
Zig Zag stitch. Within each part of the pattern Lovecrochet.com have even included
 short video tutorials showing how to work each different stitch technique.



 For the borders I worked three different designs, a ruffle, a plain edge and a bobbled edge.

 

Both shawls were so lovely to work on and there was something very addictive 
about seeing the pattern develop with each row worked. 






Whilst working on the shawls I couldn't help but think what a gorgeous blanket
 it would also make so included in Part 4 of the pattern are all the details
 needed should you wish to make a blanket. 
I made mine cot size and it has pride of place in my granddaughters cot ready
 for when she comes to stay.

 

It also makes a perfect New baby gift.



Below are all 4 parts of the pattern. 
Simply click on each one for the direct link.



Alternative yarns:  Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino
              Paintbox Simply DK
           Paintbox Baby DK
              Paintbox Cotton DK 

Monday, 27 January 2020

Primrose Wrap

♥ Primrose Spring Wrap 

I have been meaning to put this pattern up on my blog for a while 
as it is the perfect wrap to take you into Spring. 

It's one that I designed for www.lovecraftscrochet a few years ago 
but with its timeless design it can be used year after year.

It's super easy to make and with the little primroses added afterwards
 you can create something truly unique.


Made in the softest of yarn it drapes beautifully 
and the little Primroses added to the finished wrap 
will bring a beautiful touch of Spring to your wardrobe. 



 For the wrap I used 2 x 100g balls of Red Heart Precious in the colour Peridot 00005 
 For the Primroses and leaves I used 1 x ball each of Adriafil Uno A Ritorto 5 in the colours:
 Light Army Green 79, Ecru 12 and Baby Light Yellow 05.

  
I worked the wrap with a size 6mm hook, using a size 7mm hook to make the initial starting chain.
For the Primroses and leaves I worked with 2.5mm hook.


To make the wrap:
Begin by making a chain of 160. It is important to keep the chain as loose as possible  which can either be done by working very loosely with a 6mm hook or using a 7mm hook just for the chain.
You are now going to work rows of HTR, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row. Continue until your work is the depth that you want it to be when it is wrapped around your shoulders.         
Once you have completed the main body of the wrap, lay it out on a flat surface and fold it in half with the right sides together, so that the two short edges meet. You are now going to create the twist which you do by flipping the top half of the wrap over and laying the short seams together again.

 
   
Pin the two seams together, rejoin your yarn and join the two edges with a row of DC. Finish off and sew in your ends.
   
You will notice now that by joining the seams in this way you have created a permanent twist in the wrap.

To create a neat edge on the wrap I worked  two borders, one of DC and one with a scallop pattern. As you have created a twist in the fabric , when working the border you will need to change direction at some point so that the right side of the border is always facing outwards.
I found the easiest way to do this was to use a pin to mark your starting point which will be on the underneath layer,  in the centre of the twist ( see picture 1, just to the right of the crochet hook.) Then mark your end point which will be at the front left of your wrap as you are looking down at it ( see picture 2, where the crochet hook is ).
      
Now, with RS facing rejoin your yarn at the starting point and work DC all the way around to your end pin, finish off. Go back to your starting pin, and with right side facing rejoin your yarn and work DC to the end pin.

 To work your final scallop edge, using your marker pins in the same way as you did for the DC round, work a border of * Sl St, skip 1 stitch, work 5 TR all in to the next stitch, skip a stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way around.



Finish off and sew in the ends.

To make the primroses:

For my Primroses I used a mixture of the three colours.


  
Round 1: Begin by making a Magic Ring and work 5Dc in to the ring. Sl St to join and chain 1.
Round 2: Work 2 DC in to each stitch from Round 1, 10 sts
Sl St to join and finish off. Join in your petal colour with a Sl ST.
  
Now, working in to the same stitch as your * Sl St, work a HTR, TR and DTR. Into the next stitch work a DTR, TR, HTR and Sl St*. This completes your first petal. Now continue working around the centre of the flower, repeating from * to *until you have 5 petals. Join with a Sl St, finish off and sew in the ends.
    
For my wrap I made a total of 8 Primroses and 8 leaves.



To make the leaf:

Work a chain of 11 stitches. Beginning in the second chain from the hook work along the chain in the following stitch pattern: Sl St, DC, HTR, TR, DTR, DTR, TR, HTR, DC, Sl St. Work 1 chain across the bottom of the leaf.
    
You are now going to work the other side of the leaf by working along the other side of the chain in the following stitch pattern: Sl St, DC, HTR, TR, DTR, DTR, TR, HTR, DC, Sl St. Finish off by joining with a Sl St, finish off and sew in the ends.
  

It is entirely up to you how you choose to arrange your primroses, 
I found the best way to do this was to lay the wrap out an a flat surface, 
arrange the flowers and leaves in place, 
pin them and then I would recommend that once you have placed and pinned your flowers you try the wrap on just to check the flowers are exactly where you want them. Stitch the flowers and leaves on with a needle and thread.